After viewing Epbot’s Penny Table, I decided to make this table last year. I must admit, it has certainly motivated me to return to what I enjoy doing.
And now for my most recent invention
Let us know what you think
And now for my most recent invention
Let us know what you think
How to make a penny-top table
To get started, you’ll need the following materials:
- epoxy
- table legs
- pennies
- white glue
- plumbers torch
- MDF or 3/4″ melamine (23″ W X 31″ L )trim
- CLR cleaner
- Q-tips
Step 1: Painting the table
First and foremost, sand down all of the flaking finish that has already been applied to the table. Sanding is usually a pain in the buttocks; nevertheless, it isn’t too tough when the table’s surface is already flaking off in your hands. I sanded the table and then painted it black (just your basic black paint in eggshell, I believe).
Step 2: Including a railing around the table’s top
I decided to build a small railing around the table top after reading other penny table techniques. The glazing will be stopped by this. Wrapping packing tape or aluminum foil around the table to give it an edge is suggested in other guides. While it had worked for them, I was concerned that the tape or foil might not withstand the spreading glaze and decided to create a permanent edge. Besides, Home Depot sells 8-foot long sections of this thin molding for a few bucks.
My father assisted me in measuring and cutting 45 degree angles into these pieces in order for them to fit properly around the table’s edge. We were afraid that fastening the parts in place might cause them to fracture due to their narrowness. Instead, we glued them to the table using gorilla glue and then placed heavy books on top to function as clamps (if you have actual clamps, that may work better, but alas, I did not, so I put my old college textbooks to use). I also painted them black once they were installed.
My father assisted me in measuring and cutting 45 degree angles into these pieces in order for them to fit properly around the table’s edge. We were afraid that fastening the parts in place might cause them to fracture due to their narrowness. Instead, we glued them to the table using gorilla glue and then placed heavy books on top to function as clamps (if you have actual clamps, that may work better, but alas, I did not, so I put my old college textbooks to use). I also painted them black once they were installed.
Step 3: Shining the pennies
We needed a variety of penny hues, including those that were glossy and new-looking, some that were duller, and some that were almost black in color, like a coin that has been around for a long time. I carefully divided the various hues and opted to highlight a few for the first category.
Tarn X, I’d read in previous instructions, is the best method to achieve this. Simply pour some Tarn X and your coins into a basin, swirl, rinse, and dry. Isn’t it a piece of cake? I discovered the contrary.
There are two things to keep in mind: 1. Make sure you completely rinse them. Do you believe you’ve gone over everything? Rinse it one more. 2. Make sure the pennies are completely dry as well. I propose leaving them out for a bit on an old towel. You’ll damage a number of pennies if you put them in a plastic bag together without adequately rinsing or drying them, like I did (completely stripped off their copper color).
Step 4: Laying out the pennies
My partner and I started laying down the pennies and making our way in towards the center on our first attempt. This is not the way to go about it. Regrettably, your table will not be quite the right size to accommodate the pennies. Working from one side of the table to the other is something I advocate. Fortunately, we hadn’t started gluing yet, so we could start over.
As I previously stated, your table will not be the exact size to accommodate your pennies, so you’ll likely wind up with some odd spacing, as I did, with a strip of wasted space along one side of the table.
We contemplated putting the pennies in the middle of the table to create equal empty space on all sides, but we were worried that we wouldn’t be able to get it quite right. Derek proposed halving pennies to fill in the gaps. However, getting the pennies to be the exact size we wanted took some finagling. Cutting pennies may have been more bother than it was worth in the end, but it turned out fairly well!
As I previously stated, your table will not be the exact size to accommodate your pennies, so you’ll likely wind up with some odd spacing, as I did, with a strip of wasted space along one side of the table.
We contemplated putting the pennies in the middle of the table to create equal empty space on all sides, but we were worried that we wouldn’t be able to get it quite right. Derek proposed halving pennies to fill in the gaps. However, getting the pennies to be the exact size we wanted took some finagling. Cutting pennies may have been more bother than it was worth in the end, but it turned out fairly well!
Step 5: Gluing the pennies
We started gluing after deciding how we wanted the pennies to be set out (we chose to alternate face up and face down, as well as a mix of penny colors).
We used super glue on some of the coins and Gorilla Glue on others. I would not use Gorilla Glue if I had to do it all over again. Because Gorilla Glue expands as it cures, I ended up with glue between the pennies, which I tried to cut away with razor blades and even colored black with a sharpie to conceal. Even though it was barely apparent when the glaze was applied, the fact that it happened disturbed me.
We used super glue on some of the coins and Gorilla Glue on others. I would not use Gorilla Glue if I had to do it all over again. Because Gorilla Glue expands as it cures, I ended up with glue between the pennies, which I tried to cut away with razor blades and even colored black with a sharpie to conceal. Even though it was barely apparent when the glaze was applied, the fact that it happened disturbed me.
Step 6: Applying the glaze
I chose Parks Super Glaze Ultra Gloss Epoxy (around $40 from Home Depot) after doing some research. Some customers have complained about the product not self-leveling properly or the creation of bubbles. During the drying process, one individual used a blowtorch to eliminate the bubbles. Needless to say, I was apprehensive about taking this step!
However, it went off without a hitch. (Note: For this stage, you’ll need a well-ventilated area where you can leave the table for a day or two to properly dry.) We meticulously followed the instructions in the Super Glaze handbook, and we were extremely careful. They recommend having a tiny foam paint brush on hand in addition to the other items on the supply list. It aids in getting the glaze into the table’s corners.
We did get a few little bubbles, but we were able to pop them with a simple blow. There’s no need for a blowtorch!
It isn’t of professional quality. Glazes that cost approximately $100 and provide you a smoother, bubble-free surface are available if you want a professional product.
Finally, everything went off without a hitch.
However, it went off without a hitch. (Note: For this stage, you’ll need a well-ventilated area where you can leave the table for a day or two to properly dry.) We meticulously followed the instructions in the Super Glaze handbook, and we were extremely careful. They recommend having a tiny foam paint brush on hand in addition to the other items on the supply list. It aids in getting the glaze into the table’s corners.
We did get a few little bubbles, but we were able to pop them with a simple blow. There’s no need for a blowtorch!
It isn’t of professional quality. Glazes that cost approximately $100 and provide you a smoother, bubble-free surface are available if you want a professional product.
Finally, everything went off without a hitch.
Do it right now!
Do you want to attempt covering something with pennies, or have you previously done so? I’d be interested in hearing about it!
Let’s get started right now, and kanoe.info wish you luck!
