Pipe bed frames are low-cost, stylish DIY bed frames that are modular and easy to assemble. I present a mechanically durable yet aesthetic design that incorporates 3/4″ black pipe nipple as well as wood slats in this article. The measurements of the components may easily be changed to your needs, but the design shown accommodates a queen size 6’6″ mattress and a 6’1/2″ gent who can comfortably mount the bed without dropping or ascending during the approach.
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Step 1: Components
- 2 out of 6’8 “threaded and custom cut a third “pipes that run the entire length of the bed
- 4 leg flanges on the floor
- 4 out of 12 “Legs with pipes
- 2 out of 4 “pipes for the foundation
- For the footer, there are two elbows.
- 1 out of 60 “pipe for the foundation
- 2 out of 7 “pipes in the header
- 2 thread joiner unions in reverse
- The header has two three-way joints.
- 2 out of 8 “pipes in the header
- 2 unions that are straight (to provide a small ledge for the header board)
- 2 out of 18 “pipes in the header
- 1 out of 60 “a header pipe
1 header board (5′ 6″) of your choosing
11″ wide by 11″ tall (nominally 12″ ) 5′ 6″ wooden slats half-circle pipe fittings (shown) with #8 x1/2″ phillips flathead screw for attaching the pipe to the header board/bed slats
Step 2: Headboard
Pipe bed frames are simple to put together using the component list and drawings provided, but be sure to use a pipe wrench to tighten each pipe as much as possible. Because the pipe tappers at the threads, insufficiently tight pipes will break under strain.
The pipe joiner components are an important part of the assembly because they may be used to join two pipes together using reverse threads (as shown), which eliminates unscrewing one pipe while attempting to screw in the other. Even yet, bolting the header on does not significantly restrict the shape. As a result, before installing the slats, I pushed the header side against a wall to make the geometry firm.
Step 3: Wooden Slats, Weight Distribution and Treatment
The weight distribution is an important factor to consider when designing a bed frame. The weight is evenly distributed on high-end mattresses. If you don’t want to take any chances, I propose using wood screws to secure a 2 x 4 in the centre below the slats to disperse the weight.
In San Francisco, mold can grow on untreated wood left near an open window. To avoid this, I dyed all of the slats as well as the 2x4s. Stain does not prevent mold, but it does help, as can cleaning it off with bleach once a year or treating it with polypropylene (though I don’t care for the shiny sheen of polypropylene).
That concludes our discussion. The remaining components, with the exception of the 6″8″ bespoke pipes that may be cut and purchased from a plumbing business, are typical items at local hardware stores. As you can see from the assembly description, it can be put together in a few hours (excluding wood staining), simply dismantled for a move, or adjusted to fit your changing needs.
How to Build a Pipe Bed Frame
Sketchup File of the Pipe Bed Frame
I’ve included a sketchup file of the pipe bed frame here to make this project more interesting. You may view the pipe bed structure from any angle using this file, and you can even alter it to make your own own bed platform. This design will fit a twin or full-size mattress nicely. No issue, just add an additional support down the middle of the frame if you want to design the frame for a larger mattress.
The issue of cost is always brought up. It would cost roughly $300 to make this bed frame as shown using only store-bought materials. What sort of pipe and what kind of wood are the most important considerations. You could do it for approximately $120 if you used repurposed plumbing and timber. As a result, the cost is mostly determined by the materials you choose. The fittings are the only fixed expense in this project.
Determine the Size of Your Bed Frame
The length of the pipes in your bed frame will be determined by the size of your mattress. So, before you go out and buy something, think about the proportions of your mattress. Your pipes should be somewhat bigger (but not too so) than the margins of your mattress. Take into account that the pipe fittings will give you an extra inch or two around the edge. The height of the bed legs is entirely up to you. Pre-cut pipe can be found at a local plumbing supply or home store (cost vs. convenience).
Obtain the Necessary Fittings
All of the fittings you’ll need for this project may be found on Simplified Building. A brief video on how to use the fittings can be seen here.
Heather also attached felt sliders to the bottom of the 61-6 flanges to make it easier to move the bed frame and less likely to harm the floor.
Put together the Pipe Bed Frame
As you can see in this shot, putting together the pipe frame for the bed is rather simple. Place the fittings on the pipe and tighten them down to the appropriate spot. To ensure that everything is fastened down in the proper spot, use a tape measure and a level. If you make a mistake, just loosen the set screw and tighten it in the proper spot. Working with Kee Klamp pipe fittings is quite forgiving, so you’ll have no trouble altering the bed frame after it’s basically put together.
The fittings in the image above have been labeled to assist you figure out which Kee Klamp pipe fittings go there.
Construct a Mattress Base from Wood
You may make this component of the project as basic or as complicated as you like. Heather supported her mattress with 1″ x 4″ timber. By screwing together 1″ x 4″ boards, you may make something similar to what is seen above. If you’re making a bed frame for a Queen or King-sized mattress, reinforcing the timber will make the bed frame stiffer.
This wood bed frame foundation might be built of several types of wood, stained, or painted, depending on your budget and desired style.